The cemetery of German soldiers in Krasny Bor.
After the visiting the Katyn memorials I began
to explore the local forest in the Krasny Bor district, in a search for
Hitler's headquarters, "Barenhalle," that was located there during
the war. It's actually was used by the staff of the army group centre.
From the big original complex, now there have survived
only a couple of huge pillboxes and a flooded bunker. I was without a car during
the time of my visit, so I took public transportation. After exploring the
area, I some time left before the train to Smolensk was due to arrive. Therefore,
I decided to visit the cemetery for German soldiers, which is only a kilometer
and a half from the train station. I've heard that the cemetery was created during
the time of war, in 1941, and then, after the liberation of the Smolensk region
in 1943 it was destroyed like all other German cemeteries. The renovation of
the cemetery was begun in the 1990s, with money from Germany. Before that, the
bones were almost on the surface.
The main feature of the cemetery is this monument. The
cemetery is very nice looking and clean. Except the empty beer bottle behind
the cross, in the photo above, I didn't find any trash. I also didn't see any
traces of vandalism, despite the fact that German soldiers are buried there and
many people don't want to have such places in Russia.
Every mass grave is marked by three crosses. It sounds odd,
but this cemetery seems to be the nicest park-like setting in the entire area. It
may be sad that the best public space in the area is a cemetery for German
soldiers, but why is it the best? I think it’s because it was built by Germans to
German standards. I don’t think it would
be as nice had it been built by Russian authorities to modern Russian standards—very
inferior standards, by the way.
A very quiet place. Unlike at the Katyn memorial nearby,
I think the German soldiers here are seldom visited by family. Well, it's now time
to travel on to Smolensk!
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